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IL MENU DI SANT’AGATA

Sant'Agata depicted by Piero della Francesca

February 5 , St. Agatha (the name, from the greek, meaning "good spirit"). If you run in Genoa, is the anniversary day of the fair and ravioli. The show - originally the sale of horses - is held near that Bisagno which gives its name to the grocery dialect (= besagnin), ravioli them taste a bit 'in all homes and restaurants, cooked in different variants, ora più farcia che pasta, ora più carne nella farcia…, ma sempre rispettosissime quanto a “sacertà” della ricetta. Festa antica, sentita, molte persone in passato celebravano Sant’Agata Martire salendo al santuario. Costei, giovane vergine catanese del III secolo d.C., cui furono strappati i seni e bruciate parti del corpo, è patrona dei fonditori di campane e dei vigili del fuoco, su cui veglia benigna. La città natale le deve numerose salvezze e miracoli, dato che Catania patì eruzioni vulcaniche, assalti nemici, epidemie innumerevoli… Sedendoti a tavola, se rispetti la tradizione il 5 febbraio a Genova potrai assaggiare in sequenza:
i ravioli, la carne in umido coi carciofi, l’insalata, cheese, cobeletti, the mixed fruit.
Are you interested in the recipes for three dishes, of course, are the ravioli and cobeletti on Liguricettario . Stew meat for 4-6 people requires 800 g of lean veal, 1 onion, 6-8 d'Albenga artichokes, Ligurian extra virgin, the juice of 1 lemon, ½ cup dry white wine, salt to taste To prepare: Peel the artichokes and cut into four lengthwise, removing the pins, then place them in water acidulated with lemon juice before. In a crock fry the chopped onion with a little 'oil (if you also like a clove of minced garlic), add the veal and cut into pieces, as they browned, pour the half a glass of white wine. Evaporate - if you need to up the heat - and add the artichokes cut even more finely, then add salt and carefully finish cooking (the meat will soften). The dish is eaten hot, combining red wines are not too important, are just fine the Gulf of Tigullio DOC or the DOC red western Ligurian coast Rossese. Mind you: the original recipe did not contain butter or flour or broth, pepper ... or

Umberto Curti, Ligucibario & Liguvinario

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IL PESTO GENOVESE

Moretum, an ancestor of pesto

very, very distant ...

EVERYTHING YOU ALWAYS WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT basil pesto and you've never dared to ask

third and final installment

gradually from the tables of the people of the pesto reaches the dinner table "scignuri" and the kitchens of the restaurants, and encoding of the recipe - at least of the ingredients "required" - begins to be a matter of respect and tasty challenges, triumphs, basil, pace, however, Paganini who had written a recipe in which basil and marjoram (another cult Ligurian) seemed interchangeable .
Since the 50s the tourism boom attracts swarms of visitors to the Riviera Valley and foreigners, all eager for a place in the sun and ... al ristorante, possibilmente di fronte a un piatto di mandilli de saea profumati di basilico (e seguiti dall’onnipresente frittura di pesce). Una squisitezza che si cerca di “replicare” anche a casa grazie alla rivoluzione delle rivoluzioni: infatti i mitici mortaio di marmo (apuano) e pestello di legno duro vengono via via sostituiti dai frullatori, e poi da efficientissimi robot mixer: meno fatica, meno tempo, più pesto! Quanto al mixer, ponendo preventivamente le lame in frigo e utilizzandolo poi ad impulsi brevissimi, il prosaico calore non distrugge più di tanto gli aromi essenziali delle foglioline…
E, per i più pigri o maldestri, la GDO alimentare (ai tempi si chiamavano superette…) inizia to offer all year round "crushed" industry, which was, however, it appeared difficult to pronounce an opinion.
The rise in popularity of pesto is unfortunately also the exponential growth of counterfeiting, especially abroad. The world's most popular salsa cruda becomes the object of numerous attempts at imitation, so the counter-offensive snaps in 2005, the Ligurian and Genoese basil gets the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin), while associations and Chambers of Commerce is committed to the defense of the original, by being involved in the protection of typicality. But now history is today, to finally seal the Genoese as an ingredient but also a dressing, recognizes the 800 already at the end of his majesty Reboul Provencal chef, no? ...
After this rapid incursion into the biography of the pesto, I set out to objectify as much as possible the conclusions. To this end, I chose the words above partes of a "foreigner" (for us in Liguria, the forests are all the others ...), the American Fred Plotkin, a singer from decades of the glories of Italian cuisine and bon vivant "Camogli". In Recipes from Paradise (1996), an act of love for food and wine from the title of Liguria, pesto Plotkin devotes more than a dozen pages of insights, tips and recipes. The beginning sounds powerful: "Pesto, the bewitchingly Perfumed That green sauce is ubiquitous in the cooking and the Hearts of Every Ligurian is now a citizen of the world ", pesto, salsa verde from the heady scent everywhere in the kitchen and in the heart of each Ligure, stands today in the city world ... the author continues: "There is no single, definitive preparation for pesto," there is no one definitive recipe for pesto, "it Varies a bit from town to town in Liguria, just like a dialect, in Liguria it varies from one location to another, just as the dialect (an apt metaphor and evocative). Not only that, Plotkin clear: even in the same place, provided two chefs the same ingredients and dosages, the results appear diversi “because of the hand of eye of the person who makes the pesto”, a causa della mano e dell’occhio della persona che fa il pesto. Quindi, nessuno detiene verità uniche e sacre sul pesto: la responsabilità, per così dire, spetta a tutti gli amanti di una salsa che ha seguito nel tempo l’evolversi delle vicende di uomini e luoghi, come una profumatissima lezione di storia.
Ci sia nondimeno concesso di affermare che l’attuale ricetta più “consolidata”, ovvero aglio *** - pinoli - sale grosso - basilico - fiore sardo - parmigiano - olio extravergine, lavorando gli ingredienti nella giusta sequenza, col mortaio per buon amico e il mixer solo se si ha davvero fretta, regala emozioni oggettive e indimenticabili… Col pestello, mi raccomando, ruotare delicatamente gli ingredienti, senza ammaccarli rudemente dentro il mortaio. Quanto al pesto da aggiungere al minestrone (ormai pronto e fuori dal fuoco), suggerisco di eliminare i pinoli ed eventualmente sostituirli con una manciata di funghi freschi affettati, oppure secchi, già ammollati una mezz’ora in acqua tiepida.
Chi voglia cimentarsi col pesto, trova ovviamente la ricetta su Liguricettario ( http://liguricettario.blogspot.com/2010/09/il-pesto-genovese-pesto-di-basilico-al.html ), l’antologia del meglio di Liguria in cucina (trova dunque anche le altre 5 ricette al mortaio).
Long live pesto, lunga vita al pesto, e Bon appetit!

* sproc or verjuice, juice of unripe grapes grown much (known as rural) already in July, a time to meet as acidifying constant rarity of lemons. The grapes were crushed in small barrels, then the must is fermented in the sun or boiled, reduce it. The finest verjuice was also sieved. In medieval times, there are indeed many descriptions and some miniatures, was preserved, flavored, spicy, to be able to use all year round, even then - for example - with stews and roasts, but also in soups and drinks. It was thick sauce and, overall, easy to carry. Especially if it is still in the Marches, much less in Lombardy one of the homelands
** Moretum, cheese (pecorino) "pseudo-Virgilian, aromatic, eg. with garlic, coriander and celery. The word is not derived from a mortar. In Apicius, passim, in addition to the herbs are fresh, which is approaching the recipe is the pseudo Virgil to Ovid (Fasti 4.371). The Moretum should always include garlic, but known as the Apicius abhorred. Condiment moretaria was, in turn, a sauce with herbs, spices, honey, garum ... sort of keeps the delicate fish aromatic married, i read, the thistles ...
*** make me smile ... those who imply that everything Ligurian pesto should be done only with garlic "Vessalico" As far as I need?

Louise Puppo, Director of the Italian Association IEA Etnogastronomi

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IL PESTO GENOVESE

marble from the Apuan Alps to the Ligurian mortars

EVERYTHING YOU ALWAYS WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT basil pesto and never dared ASK

second episode

But what lies in the success of the pesto sauces than the "sisters"? Certainly in being held as a sauce for pasta - and Genoa will be a chance that (along with Sicily) since the Middle Ages is positioned as the most important reality for the Mediterranean trade of the food in question, originally "created" by the Arabs? Liguria, "port" where the sun and the wind never fails to help the drying process, to trade it in fact became one of the leading manufacturers, the '500 fidelari of being an economic power (the pasta anywhere in aggregate corporations, vermicelli, lasagnari ... to share the huge costs and outpace the bakers).
In the first half of the shift takes place. Decreases (to disappear) the vinegar, the cheese seems (and here someone might consider the Moretum **, flavored cheese that Roman Apicius, the Culinary Institute of the Imperial era, embellished with fresh herbs, but the " link threatens the conceptual boldness).
All witnessed by the many recipes that - since the mid-nineteenth century - send us the recipes first "wired" for the use of pesto as a sauce for pasta. It provides confirmation of the reputation "daily" pesto also popular literature of the time: a poem of thirty-three-priest Michael Pedevilla polygraph Louis (1815-1877), a Balilla fumantino says that will not go in Puerto Rico in search of pies and flour, or "... pe Vedda ago or pesto to death," probably widespread use. About pasta shapes, you say the cult of yesterday and today: lasagna, picagge (are large fettuccine) trenette (are bibs, linguini), gnocchi (troff), queens ... but taking in mind that the egg would not like pesto.
reading recipe books in the nineteenth and early twentieth century, cook the Rat (1863), the "excessive" cook Rossi (1865) until the close of Lean Cuisine Dellepiane (1880) - and blessed is he who came into possession of the synthesis (1910) by Imre Calvetti! - Provides significant information on the pesto of yesteryear. First, the obligation to seasonality: the pesto was an exclusive pleasure of summer, at least until publication of the basil in the greenhouse (1870 - 1880). The methods used to conserve the precious time herb - dried, salted and oil - in fact, do not lend themselves to the preparation of the sauce, less favorable in the months that was often prepared with the addition of other herbs. Those who are now appalled at the mention of the butter in the recipe of Rape should be noted that in many areas of the region (mainly internal) olive oil brought a rarity and cost, unfortunately, well known, is acted with parsimony, drug dispensing. Same goes for the cheese: pair of fat used to bind the mixture, was also chosen on the basis of affordability and availability. Here, then, the use of prescinseua (curd) in the Levant, and still affordable pecorino cheese, Dutch Gouda, the cheeses "anonymous" produced by many farmers in Liguria ... The pine nuts were a "dear" utopia, sometimes even absent, often supplemented (if not replaced) by the domestic nuts (remember, indebted to Fred Plotkin, in the Arab world that the presence of oily nuts in sauces used very commonly, and centuries Genoa has had trade and trade with the Mediterranean ...). Even the Genoese
nutritionist Piroddi Lorenzo (1911-1999), author in 1993 of Mediterranean cuisine, offers a surprisingly little pesto on the whole true, because of the presence - as the real intruders - leaf parsley and pepper. From
always, necessity is the mother of invention - in the kitchen. To the housekeepers the hinterland to the pesto for example, two major actors, symbols of simple cooking and "reinforced" in mountain areas: the potatoes (when Father Michael Dondero in the '700 'Sdogati "...), which increased the yield of pulp, and chestnut flour which effectively replace large percentage of flour most noble. "What is it, when there" was the pragmatic dogma of an era that now seems very remote, based on principles of seasonality, energy, creativity and - undoubtedly - the search for aromatic pleasure.

Louise Puppo, Director of the Italian Association IEA Etnogastronomi

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CULTURAL ROUTE HIKING - CASTLE IN NATURE WALK CAIAZZO

Sunday, January 23, 2011



cultural excursion itinerary suitable to all age d ' age groups including

Departure: Caserta - Piazzale della Seta - San Leucio 9:55 hours 10:30 hours

Caiazzo appointment to the first traffic light turn right, and visit the huge walls of the castle and the old Lombard patches Sorico, cathedral, portal, short walk to the summit of Mount Carmignano, sad place of slaughter Nazi
Some news on the castle at the following link
www.comune.caiazzo.ce.it / process / castello.htm

14 hour lunch at the farmhouse in the hamlet Sangiovanni Sangiovanni and Paul Caiazzo at a price of 23 euro (10 per children) - starter, new oil tasting, a first, second, all the trimmings, house wine, dessert, fruit, coffee liqueur and

16:30 hours visit to the cellars of the village Rossetti Alvignanello with a free tasting of wines - also as usual many souvenir photo for all

COORDINATOR OF THIS:
ALESSANDRO Santulli TEL. 3925322408 alessandrosantulli@gmail.com
ANTONIO SanGiovanni TEL. 3393275628-0823862437

E 'idea to call by Saturday evening to join the excursion
are recommended a suitable pair of shoes to the mountain environment, the whole event takes place on a comfortable path, the walk was postponed due to bad weather, the responsibilities are individual and not the directors of
walk the walk and all activities are free, the only price are 23 € for lunch.

The following link to photos of the excursion:
http://picasaweb.google.com/alesantulli/CascataDelSavone16111 #
programs at the following link for next trips:
http://sentiericaserta.blogspot.com/

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ROCCAMONFINA 16-1-11

Sunday 16 January 2011



Departure: Caserta - incoming traffic light junction national highway north of Caserta (forward armchair sofa and former hotel) 10:25 hours (PUNTUALI!)
Departure tour: Torano 488 meters final at 11
Arrival: Furnolo 279 meters at about 17
Distance: 7 miles
difference in height: 200 meters
Walking time: 4 hours (excluding stops)
Difficulty ': escursione facile – partecipazione gratuita

Sono raccomandati un paio di calzature adatti all’ambiente montano, il percorso si svolge su facile sentiero, pranzo al sacco, la passeggiata è rimandata in caso di maltempo, le responsabilità sono individuali e non del direttore di gita

COORDINATORE DELL’ESCURSIONE: ALESSANDRO SANTULLI TEL. 3925322408
alessandrosantulli@gmail.com

E’ Consigliabile chiamarmi o inviarmi una mail entro sabato sera per aderire all’escursione

Al seguente link le foto della scorsa escursione:
http://picasaweb.google.com/alesantulli/CiampateDelDiavolo121210#

al seguente link i programmi delle prossime Desk:
http://sentiericaserta.blogspot.com/

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