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I COLORI, I PROFUMI, I SAPORI DEL FINALE

the pleasant farm-farmhouse
"The Giaire" Calizzano (SV)

CITRUS, PUMPKINS, CHESTNUT AND HERBS
from the marquis of CART TO PASSAGE OF NAPOLEON


I'm participating a project for the rediscovery and preservation of ancient local tastes through the development of the areas of "niche" of the rural economy and agro-typical of the northern Mediterranean. Before delving
be a step back in history, until the year 967, the birth of the Marquis of Finale, which will exist then a period of history called "Carretto" (1162 -1602) dal casato dei Del Carretto. Questa data fornisce una prima collocazione temporale e territoriale a quanto sostanzia il progetto di cui sopra.
Il Marchesato di Finale rappresentò un antico stato italiano, situato in Liguria nel territorio istituzionale oggi appartenente ai Comuni del Finalese, dell'entroterra e dell'Alta Val Bormida, ivi compresi Calizzano, Murialdo…, sino ad arrivare a Rocchetta di Cengio ed oltre.
Li menziono nello specifico perché oggetto del lavoro di ricerca per il rilancio, la caratterizzazione e la promozione di specie già anticamente coltivate, e dunque simboliche e rappresentative del territorio.
Già Carlo Magno, il più grande proprietario terriero dell’Europa del tempo altomedievale, in order to take advantage of the resources generated from agricultural activities, between 770 and 800 issued a famous order called "Capitulare de Villis. Among the various recommendations to grow properly in the fields and gardens and enjoy the cutting of forests, provided a detailed list of plants preferred option among them the pumpkins, the tansy, beans, cumin, rosemary, chickpea , artemisia, clover, lettuce ... and many others.
This project considers the chestnuts, citrus fruits (oranges pernambucco), pumpkin Cengio Rocchetta, and - as a medicinal herb - the Tanacetum crispum or Archibus (Arquebuse).


CHESTNUTS DRIED In the Tecci Calizzano and MURIALDO

Val Bormida survives an ancient technique, which was once widespread throughout the Apennines in Liguria and Piedmont valleys: the drying of the chestnuts in the "Tecci. The squeegees or Tecci are small stone building consisting of only one room and the roof shingles (tiles made from a bar of chestnut) still in the chestnut Alta Val Bormida Tecci are active, hidden among trees. In simple terms this practice, after the harvest in autumn the chestnuts are brought Tecchio and placed on half-timbered ceiling. Two meters further down to the ground, lighting a fire is tenuous and that constantly fed with chestnut wood, and "smothered" with the dried peel the chestnuts in the previous year. As the collection proceeds layers increases, in total, the smoke lasts about a month and a half. Chestnuts are turned over to give smoking at uniform, and even after they are exposed for five to ten days, and beaten to remove the skin (called chaff)
... A table is consumed dried or as ingredients to prepare such delicious sausage and chestnuts, jams, ice cream, liquor and beer .... According to tradition, when cooked, is eaten in cold milk. Similar to the Tecci canissi in Arroscia, who were sometimes also "find" where the love blossomed; dopo l’essiccatura, le castagne da sbucciare venivano poste dentro una pistagna (sacca di tela), immersa in acqua e ceneri calde, sbattuta tre volte su un ceppo, le castagne venivano poi trasferite nel vallo (cesta tonda e piatta) dove si otteneva il distacco della pula, e alla fine si festeggiava il buon esito del lavoro con buridde di stoccafisso e qualche altra leccornia

LE ARANCE PERNAMBUCCO

Lo stato di Pernambuco è una relativamente piccola porzione del nord est del Brasile, città principale e capitale si conferma Recife, un grande centro industriale dal passato glorioso. Il Pernambuco ha forma lunga e stretta, e verso est possiede una breve costa, di soli 187 km, bagnata dall’oceano Atlantico. Appartiene the state of Pernambuco also the archipelago Fernando de Noronha, approximately 350 km off the coast. The population of Pernambuco is mainly composed of mulattos, whites are 37%, blacks 6%, a few Asians and Indians.
The coastal area is flat, rich vegetation, with numerous estuaries, and some islands of sand, and also the interior landscape is varied, there are plateaus and mountains such as the Chapada do Planalto de Borborema Araripe and that has an average altitude of 600 meters, it stands on the highest mountain, Pico do Papagaio (1,260 m.), a small parrot that once again confirms the lush flora and fauna of Brazil. More half of the territory of Pernambuco is formed by sertão, characteristic of the northeast region of Brazil in semi-desert climate. The São Francisco River, part of which forms the border with the state of Bahia, is the most important.
From the economic point of view of Pernambuco has the second most developed economy in the north east of Brazil, and the tenth among all states of Brazil.
The economic resources are agriculture and livestock, there are in fact produced from sugar cane, cassava, maize, cotton, coffee, citrus fruits, bananas, pineapple. Industry plays a vital role, are food, textiles, chemicals and pharmaceuticals, and wood. The
Tourism benefits from the (short) rich coast beaches and renowned resorts such as Porto de Galinhas, Itamaracá and Pau Amarelo. Of great importance also certain historical memories, as the city of Olinda Itamaracá (Fort Orange) and Goiania. The historic city of Olinda was included in World Heritage by UNESCO, as mentioned Fernando de Noronha archipelago, which together with Olinda is no coincidence that the most popular destination of Pernambuco.
The cultivation and export of precious oranges had substantial weight to the Republic of Genoa that mattered to market with northern Europe (also arrived from the port of Seville bitter oranges). Citrus fruits unripe crops were cooked in a sort of molasses made from sugar, spices and juice it, then packed in wooden barrels and stored in the holds as a good reserve of vitamins, according antiscorbuto.
E 'likely that this recipe has been borrowed from Arabic cuisine.
And in the seventeenth century the Genoese sharpened some other form of oriental origin, or candied fruit, becoming the best producers ... and even loyal consumers.
variety of Washington Navel orange pernambucco has selected local clones. And today 'plant with spreading habit, very dense foliage and small leaf elliptical, with characteristically dark green color.
Fruiting begins the third year, this is a citrus fruit of medium to large depending on your selection.
E 'characterized by a rather thick skin and vesicles, bright orange color, and secondary internal spicchiatura. The slices are uneven.
when handling issues lingering scent of essential oils and pleasant.
Liguria was, until the end of the eighteenth century, a major producer of oranges, lemons, citron, which, for their scents and colors have always fascinated travelers and architects. Currently surviving examples are in the gardens of rivers or in the palaces.

pumpkin ROCCHETTA of ledges

Until a few decades ago - 60s and 70s - in Rocchetta di Cengio (SV) was widespread cultivation of pumpkins, including a medium-large pumpkin used for soups and jams. Sources
we deliver oral testimony concerning the likely origin of cultivation dating back to World War I as a result of the arrival of seeds from neighboring France, where winter many farmers / builders emigrated to remain out of work construction work on site, due to abundant snow and ice. In fact, the pumpkin
Rouge Vif d'Estampes, which is a variety of Cucurbita maxima, red-orange, flattened, with characteristic grooves on the skin, of French origin precisely (and still on the market in the USA), has characters close enough to the pumpkin Rocchetta, except as to weight and aging time, the first lighter and shorter than the second. The pumpkin
Rocchetta, the sprouting of the seed maturation fit for human consumption, it takes 180 days, and can reach 35/40 kg when grown alone with only manure.
Jams, called commonly, but erroneously, "jam" is packaged for the pies and daily consumption (breakfast ...), the spread was prepared with the addition of cocoa.
The practice of preparing them was induced by the fact that, given the size of the pumpkin, at times of 25/30 kg, where it was cut disposed in a period not superiore ad una settimana dal taglio.
In cucina l’utilizzo più diffuso era per risotti, ripieni di ravioli, varie minestre e per la preparazione di una crema vellutata. Beninteso, si può anche friggere e marinare.
Le particolari condizioni dell’area hanno determinato la selezione naturale di una varietà autoctona con caratteristiche non riscontrabili fra le altre varietà in commercio.
Col passare degli anni, sino al finire degli anni ’90, la coltivazione si è andata riducendo quasi a livello hobbistico, con produzioni confidenziali per pochi amici…
Della esigua produzione degli ultimi anni, (1991, 1992) rimasero soltanto 60 semi, conservati da due famiglie di Rocchetta di Cengio.
Thus was born the project "Save the pumpkin Rocchetta", edited by Slow Food Upper Valley Bormida-Cengio.
In 2005, it intercepted the few remaining seeds for distribution to farmers and horticulturists of the valley, who have undertaken to cultivate purity in order to safeguard the survival and prevent the risk of extinction, regaining possession of the ability to reproduce seeds.
From small production (40 units) in 2005 were selected 850 seeds taken from the best pumpkins and distributed to 130 subjects in the municipalities of Cengio, Millesimo, Murialdo and Cosseria.
Each pack of seeds for the 2006 production, in addition to the letter of commitment concerning compliance with specifications, reports the number of origin of the pumpkin, ensuring the production and selective monitoring. With this I make pumpkin
a delicate mustard, oranges and pernambucco Dried Chestnut Calizzano and Murialdo both candied.


THE Tanacetum crispum or Archibus (Arquebuse)

Revised dall'erborista Calizzano Antonio was born in Massa, a charming village at 650 m above sea level but close to the sea, this herbal tea made from Tanacetum crispum, commonly called Arquebuse , best served very fresh after every meal. This medicinal plant, with its bright green color, its leaves to pennatifide Lobe sharp, jagged, dotted with dimples, and its strong scent, aromatic and penetrating, have several qualities: it is both tonic and digestive stimulant and finally. In fact, the liquor obtained was always present in the homes of grandmothers, and was placed in plain view within the bottle finest in the cupboard.
The common name derives from the curiously rifle used by French soldiers in Napoleon's time, as the wounds that caused the weapon to the soldiers were treated with dye obtained from the leaves of this medicinal plant. And 'now an elixir that gives a touch further to the identity Val Bormida, where history, authenticity, quality native interact with the coast to the colors and flavors genuine, affectionate echoes of Liguria that excelled in citrus, herbs, recipes ... sagacious

Raffaele Corrado, farm-holidays "The Giaire" Calizzano (SV)

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